(Well, the safety on the gun didn't work right, so I just wired it off. It is a safety item and can save your life. With a TORS, there is no need to be religious.ĭo not unhook a TORS switch and leave it that way. If the throttle sticks, the sled will take off by itself. It is correct if they are religious, but not too many people hook up their tethers until after the sled is running and they are ready to take off. There seems to be a problem serving the request at this time. Most throttle freeze ups are going to cause a problem when the sled is started cold for the day. If the throttle sticks while underway, the power is shut down and the sled slows down with the engine at idle. A TORS normally keeps the sled from moving at all. Everone who has snowmobiled years ago has heard stories of that happening. ![]() With a tether and a stuck throttle, the rider can stay on the sled until it crashes, which can happen very quickly - also not good for the rider or the sled. That is not a good thing to happen at high speed - for the rider or the sled. I agree with its purpose, however if you run a tether and are religious about attaching it to yourself before starting the sled, it will serve the same purpose.Ī tether switch can be left unclipped ("well I was just going to move it into the garage"), while a TORS is always automatically working.Ī tether is made to work if the throttle sticks and the rider falls off the sled. ![]() I know my rad is full for sure so I'm blaming it on some poor conditions and a warm day.next purchase is an auxilliary cooler from Yamaha.The TORS system is a safety system. I did notice my coolant resivoir level fluxuating but never once did it boil over. I checked my sled for leaks and saw nothing, no colant anywhere. the fan kicks in around 200 degrees I think and the light comes on at 210.which I believe is just a warning and I think the engine will go into limp mode beyond those temps.although we all want to avoid that. I've checked the fan fues and it was fine, but I may replace the relay up front as I don't think the light should have come in some of the areas I was in. I think when the sled got hot the first time it never really was able to properly recover and heated up very quickly. I drove home, about 20 miles through mostly good conditions ( with the exception of one town that has ver low snow conditions ) and the light never came on again. I took teh top cowl off to let out some heat, held a chunk of icey snow up against the front heat exchanger and waited about 30 min. ![]() I finally stopped in a good area, drove the sled slowly into to some deep snow and shut it down. We had a couple of short stops and then one that was 15-20 min, started up and went across a large lake ( 3 miles stretch ) and the light came on again.we went down a trail with low snow fof about 7 miles.the light went out but came on one more time before we fueled up.I decided to turn around as we were close to the cottage.I hit conditions that ranged from good to very poor with little snow.the light came on 5 times but I just kept riding as when I got do decent snow it would go out. The next day we went riding and no issues for the first 40 miles, then hit a stretch of rd 7km long with almost zero snow.light came on and off a couple times until I got into some good snow and didn't come on again. ![]() I assumed it just got hot from the idleing and long WOT pulls across the lake with really not cool down time in between. The first time it happened we had just done several long drag races on a well snow covered lake.that kinda had me worried so I took it back to the cottage and shut it down for the night. I had the same issues this weekend with my light coming on.no codes flashed, but the sled was running hot.
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